Written by Administrator

Category: General Inspection Articles

Published: 08 September 2020

Click here to go to the Structural Pest Control Service website of the Texas Department of Agriculture.

Written by Administrator

Category: General Inspection Articles

Published: 15 January 2015

by Michael Chotiner of The Home Depot With Modifications by Robert Hughes

Stains on asphalt roofing shingles make a house look shabby, which detracts from its value. In some cases, stains are merely a cosmetic issue.  But sometimes they’re symptomatic of a problem that, if left unchecked, can lead to more serious damage and, eventually, roof failure. It's not always hard to distinguish the causes of stains, nor, in most cases, to get rid of them and prevent the stains from recurring.

Common Causes of Staining

Dark stains on an asphalt roof could be caused by a number of conditions, including:

Eroded mineral surface. If the roof-covering material has been on the house for 15 years or so, it could be that the surface granules are wearing off the shingles and the asphalt base is starting to show through. On older roofs, you may additionally see cracked and/or shingles with curled edges. If you determine that age and wear are the causes of darkening, it may be time for a new roof.

Algae growth. More often than not, blue, green or black stains on an asphalt-shingle roof are caused by algae. Algae staining begins with small spots which, over time, can develop into streaks. Algae stains, which are often mistaken for mold or mildew, aren't harmful to anything other than the appearance of asphalt shingles, but nobody likes the look.

Algae-stained asphalt-shingle roof (photo by author)

Moss. Green, velvety masses of moss often grow on north-facing roof surfaces and on tree-shaded roofs. Unlike algae, moss left on roof surfaces can develop beyond an aesthetic problem. It can infiltrate the roof structure underneath the shingles and make their edges lift and curl, which can lead to cracking and blow-off during high winds and storms. Heavy moss growth can actually form dams that can cause water to back up under the shingles and damage the roof deck. It's best to clean moss off a roof as soon as you notice it's growing there.

 

Safety First 

Both algae and moss can be easily removed from asphalt shingles with a 50/50 solution of chlorine bleach and water. Laundry-strength bleach is sufficient, or you can opt for any of a number of proprietary roof cleaners, some of which don't contain bleach, lye, or other potentially harmful chemicals.

Since bleach and some cleaners can be harmful to plants and humans, it's a good idea to take some precautions when working with them, including the following:

• Wait for a calm, windless day to clean your roof.
• Spray landscape plants near the house with water and cover them with tarps to protect them from chemical overspray and runoff.  If you cannot control the run-off (by catching the water from the downspouts.  Then use a low chlorine solution of 10 percent chlorine and 90 percent water.  Then you can leave it on for a longer period of time.
• Wear protective clothing, including long sleeves, pants and gloves, as well as goggles to protect your eyes, and shoes with high-traction soles.

Before climbing up to clean stains from your roof, be aware that about 30,000 people fall off ladders and roofs each year.  Consider using a safety harness, just as the pros are required to do, and follow the common-sense rules for properly positioning and using a ladder, which can be found in InterNACHI’s article on ladder safety.  Also, be sure to notify someone that you’ll be on your roof.  In case of an accident that incapacitates you, you’ll want someone to know where to look for you.

Upgear by Wenner Safety Harness (photo courtesy of The Home Depot)

How to Clean Algae and Moss from a Roof 

Apply the bleach solution with a garden sprayer. Let it stand on the surface for about 20 minutes, then rinse it off with spray from a garden hose. Don't let the bleach solution stand on the roof for more than 30 minutes or so without rinsing. And don't use a pressure washer, which can damage the shingles by removing their protective layer of asphalt granules.  Please note that the water run-off may damage the plants because of th chlorine.  If the roof is equipped with gutters, you may want to direct the run-off water from the downspouts into a container.

If accumulations of algae or moss are heavy, at least some of it should wash off the roof surface right away with the stream from the hose. You can try brushing off algae and moss with a brush or broom with medium-stiff bristles, but don't scrub too hard. You don't want to separate the mineral granules from the shingles.

If chunks of algae or moss or heavy stains remain on the surface after rinsing, let the roof dry, then spray on the bleach solution again. Wait 30 minutes and rinse. Don't worry if some staining remains after the second rinse. It should wash off over time with exposure to rain and sunlight.

How to Prevent Algae and Moss Stains from Recurring 

Algae and moss tend to grow roof surfaces that are shaded and retain moisture. So, it’s a good idea to cut away tree branches that overhang the roof and block sunlight. Keep the roof surface clean by blowing off leaves and fallen branches during seasonal maintenance.

The red lines indicate where to install sacrificial metal strips 
to prevent algae and moss growth.

For long-term stain prevention, have zinc or copper strips installed under the cap shingles, leaving an inch or two of the surface exposed at roof peaks, along hips, and under the first course of shingles at the base of dormers. Copper and zinc are sacrificial metals that shed tiny bits of their surface with each rainfall. The metals coat the roof and inhibit organic growth for many years.

Following these maintenance tips can help homeowners enjoy an attractive roof.  They can also help extend the roof’s service life, which is important whether you plan to stay in your home or sell it in the future.

Written by Administrator

Category: General Inspection Articles

Published: 04 January 2016

 

 

Natural stone countertops, which are less expensive than they were just a few years ago, are becoming more popular, and one can expect them to last a lifetime. Cultured marble countertops have a shorter life expectancy, however.

 

COUNTERTOPS	YEARS
Concrete	50
Cultured Marble	20
Natural Stone	100+
Laminate	20 to 30
Resin	10+
Tile	100+
Wood	100+

 

 

Decks are exposed to a wide range of conditions in different climates, from wind and hail in some areas, to relatively consistent, dry weather in others. See FASTENERS & STEEL section for fasteners.

 

DECKS	YEARS
Deck Planks	15
Composite	8 to 25
Structural Wood	10 to 30

 

 

Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house, while vinyl and screen doors have a shorter life expectancy. The gaskets/weatherstripping of exterior doors may have to be replaced every 5 to 8 years.

 

DOORS	YEARS
Closet (interior)	100+
Fiberglass (exterior)	100+
Fire-Rated Steel (exterior)	100+
French (interior)	30 to 50
Screen (exterior)	30
Sliding Glass/Patio (exterior)	20 (for roller wheel/track repair/replacement)
Vinyl (exterior)	20
Wood (exterior)	100+
Wood (hollow-core interior)	20 to 30
Wood (solid-core interior)	30 to 100+

 

 

Copper-plated wiring, copper-clad aluminum, and bare copper wiring are expected to last a lifetime, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls, such as dimmer switches, may need to be replaced after 10 years.  GFCIs could last 30 years, but much less if tripped regularly.

 

Remember that faulty, damaged or overloaded electrical circuits or equipment are the leading cause of house fires, so they should be inspected regularly and repaired or updated as needed.

 

ELECTRICAL	YEARS
Accessories	10+
Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs)	30
Bare Copper	100+
Bulbs (compact fluorescent)	8,000 to 10,000+ hours
Bulbs (halogen)	4,000 to 8,000+ hours
Bulbs (incandescent)	1,000 to 2,000+ hours
Bulbs (LED)	30,000 to 50,000+ hours
Copper-Clad Aluminum	100+
Copper-Plated	100+
Fixtures	40
Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)	up to 30
Lighting Controls	30+
Residential Propane Backup Generators	12
Service Panel	60
Solar Panels	20 to 30
Solar System Batteries	3 to 12
Wind Turbine Generators	20

 

 

Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are durable household components, and engineered trim may last 30 years.

 

ENGINEERED LUMBER	YEARS
Engineered Joists	80+
Laminated Strand Lumber	100+
Laminated Veneer Lumber	80+
Trusses	100+

  

 

 

Fastener manufacturers do not give lifespans for their products because they vary too much based on where the fasteners are installed in a home, the materials in which they're installed, and the local climate and environment.  However, inspectors can use the guidelines below to make educated judgments about the materials they inspect.

 

FASTENERS, CONNECTORS & STEEL	YEARS
Adjustable Steel Columns	50+
Fasteners (bright)	25 to 60
Fasteners (copper)	65 to 80+
Fasteners (galvanized)	10+
Fasteners (electro-galvanized)	15 to 45
Fasteners (hot-dipped galvanized)	35 to 60
Fasteners (stainless)	65 to 100+
Steel Beams	200+
Steel Columns	100+
Steel Plates	100+

 

 

Flooring life is dependent on maintenance and the amount of foot traffic the floor endures.

 

 

FLOORING	YEARS
All Wood Floors	100+
Bamboo	100+
Brick Pavers	100+
Carpet	8 to 10
Concrete	50+
Engineered Wood	50+
Exotic Wood	100+
Granite	100+
Laminate	15 to 25
Linoleum	25
Marble	100+
Other Domestic Wood	100+
Slate	100
Terrazzo	75+
Tile	75 to 100
Vinyl	25

 

 

Concrete and poured-block footings and foundations will last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built.  Waterproofing with bituminous coating lasts 10 years, but if it cracks, it is immediately damaged.

 

FOUNDATIONS	YEARS
Baseboard Waterproofing System	50
Bituminous-Coating Waterproofing	10
Concrete Block	100+
Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)	100
Post and Pier	20 to 65
Post and Tensioned Slab on Grade	100+
Poured-Concrete Footings and Foundation	100+
Slab on Grade (concrete)	100
Wood Foundation	5 to 40
Permanent Wood Foundation (PWF; treated)	75

 

 

Framing and structural systems have extended longevities; poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime. 

 

FRAMING	YEARS
Log	80 to 200
Poured-Concrete Systems	100+
Steel	100+
Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)	100+
Timber Frame	100+

 

 

The quality and frequency of use will affect the longevity of garage doors and openers.

 

GARAGES	YEARS
Garage Doors	20 to 25
Garage Door Openers	10 to 15

 

 

Home technology systems have diverse life expectancies and may have to be upgraded due to evolution in technology.

 

HOME TECHNOLOGY	YEARS
Built-In Audio	20
Carbon Monoxide Detectors*	5
Door Bells	45
Home Automation System	5 to 50
Intercoms	20
Security System	5 to 20
Smoke/Heat Detectors*	less than 10
Wireless Home Networks	5+

* Batteries should be changed at least annually.

 

 

Thermostats may last 35 years but they are usually replaced before they fail due to technological improvements.

 

HVAC	YEARS
Air Conditioner (central)	7 to 15
Air Exchanger	15
Attic Fan	15 to 25
Boiler	40
Burner	10+
Ceiling Fan	5 to 10
Condenser	8 to 20
Dampers	20+
Dehumidifier	8
Diffusers, Grilles and Registers	25
Ducting	60 to 100
Electric Radiant Heater	40
Evaporator Cooler	15 to 25
Furnace	15 to 25
Gas Fireplace	15 to 25
Heat Exchanger	10 to 15
Heat Pump	10 to 15
Heat-Recovery Ventilator	20
Hot-Water and Steam-Radiant Boiler	40
Humidifier	12
Induction and Fan-Coil Units	10 to 15
Chimney Cap (concrete)	100+
Chimney Cap (metal)	10 to 20
Chimney Cap (mortar)	15
Chimney Flue Tile	40 to 120
Thermostats	35
Ventilator	7

 

 

As long as they are not punctured, cut or burned and are kept dry and away from UV rays, cellulose, fiberglass and foam insulation materials will last a lifetime. This is true regardless of whether they were installed as loose-fill, housewrap or batts/rolls.

 

INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS	YEARS
Batts/Rolls	100+
Black Paper (felt paper)	15 to 30
Cellulose	100+
Fiberglass	100+
Foamboard	100+
Housewrap	80+
Liquid-Applied Membrane	50
Loose-Fill	100+
Rock Wool	100+
Wrap Tape	80+

 

  

Masonry is one of the most enduring household components. Fireplaces, chimneys and brick veneers can last the lifetime of a home.

 

MASONRY & CONCRETE	YEARS
Brick	100+
Insulated Concrete Forms (hybrid block)	100+
Concrete Masonry Units (CMUs)	100+
Man-Made Stone	25
Masonry Sealant	2 to 20
Stone	100+
Stucco/EIFS	50+
Veneer	100+

 

 

Custom millwork and stair parts will last a lifetime and are typically only upgraded for aesthetic reasons.

 

MOLDING, MILLWORK & TRIM	YEARS
Attic Stairs (pull-down)	50
Custom Millwork	100+
Pre-Built Stairs	100+
Stair Parts	100+
Stairs	100+

 

 

 

The lifetime of any wood product depends heavily on moisture intrusion.

 

PANELS	YEARS
Flooring Underlayment	25
Hardboard	40
Particleboard	60
Plywood	100
Softwood	30
Oriented Strand Board (OSB)	60
Wall Panels	100+

 

 

The quality of plumbing fixtures varies dramatically.  The mineral content of water can shorten the life expectancy of water heaters and clog showerheads.  Also, some finishes may require special maintenance with approved cleaning agents per the manufacturers in order to last their expected service lives.

 

PLUMBING, FIXTURES & FAUCETS	YEARS
ABS and PVC Waste Pipe	50 to 80
Accessible/ADA Handles	100+
Acrylic Kitchen Sink	50
Cast-Iron Bathtub	100
Cast-Iron Waste Pipe (above ground)	60
Cast-Iron Waste Pipe (below ground)	50 to 60
Concrete Waste Pipe	100+
Copper Water Lines	70
Enameled Steel Kitchen Sink	5 to 10+
Faucets and Spray Hose	15 to 20
Fiberglass Bathtub and Shower	20
Gas Lines (black steel)	75
Gas Lines (flex)	30
Hose Bibs	20 to 30
Instant (on-demand) Water Heater	10
PEX	40
Plastic Water Lines	75
Saunas/Steam Room	15 to 20
Sewer Grinder Pump	10
Shower Enclosure/Module	50
Shower Doors	20
Showerheads	100+ (if not clogged by mineral/other deposits)
Soapstone Kitchen Sink	100+
Sump Pump	7
Toilet Tank Components	5
Toilets, Bidets and Urinals	100+
Vent Fan (ceiling)	5 to 10
Vessel Sink (stone, glass, porcelain, copper)	5 to 20+
Water Heater (conventional)	6 to 12
Water Line (copper)	50
Water Line (plastic)	50
Well Pump	15
Water Softener	20
Whirlpool Tub	20 to 50

 

 

 

Radon systems have but one moving part:  the radon fan.

 

RADON SYSTEMS	YEARS
Air Exchanger	15
Barometric Backdraft Damper/Fresh-Air Intake	20
Caulking	5 to 10
Labeling	25
Manometer	15
Piping	50+
Radon Fan	5 to 8

 

 

The life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, building and design, material quality, and adequate maintenance.  Hot climates drastically reduce asphalt shingle life.  Roofs in areas that experience severe weather, such as hail, tornadoes and/or hurricanes may also experience a shorter-than-normal lifespan overall or may incur isolated damage that requires repair in order to ensure the service life of the surrounding roofing materials.

 

ROOFING	YEARS
Aluminum Coating	3 to 7
Asphalt Shingles (3-tab)	20
Asphalt (architectural)	30
BUR (built-up roofing)	30
Clay/Concrete	100+
Coal and Tar	30
Copper	70+
EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) Rubber	15 to 25
Fiber Cement	25
Green (vegetation-covered)	5 to 40
Metal	40 to 80
Modified Bitumen	20
Simulated Slate	10 to 35
Slate	60 to 150
TPO	7 to 20
Wood	25

 

 

Outside siding materials typically last a lifetime.  Some exterior components may require protection through appropriate paints or sealants, as well as regular maintenance.  Also, while well-maintained and undamaged flashing can last a long time, it is their connections that tend to fail, so seasonal inspection and maintenance are strongly recommended.

 

SIDINGS, FLASHING & ACCESSORIES	YEARS
Aluminum Siding	25 to 40+
Aluminum Gutters, Downspouts, Soffit and Fascia	20 to 40+
Asbestos Shingle	100
Brick	100+
Cementitious	100+
Copper Downspouts	100
Copper Gutters	50+
Engineered Wood	100+
Fiber Cement	100+
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts	20
Manufactured Stone	100+
Stone	100+
Stucco/EIFS	50+
Trim	25
Vinyl Siding	60
Vinyl Gutters and Downspouts	25+
Wood/Exterior Shutters	20

 

 

Site and landscaping elements have life expectancies that vary dramatically. 

 

SITE & LANDSCAPING	YEARS
American Red Clay	100+
Asphalt Driveway	15 to 20
Brick and Concrete Patio	15 to 25
Clay Paving	100+
Concrete Walks	40 to 50
Controllers	15
Gravel Walks	4 to 6
Mulch	1 to 2
Polyvinyl Fencing	100+
Sprinkler Heads	10 to 14
Underground PVC Piping	60+
Valves	20
Wood Chips	1 to 5
Wood Fencing	20

 

 

Swimming pools are composed of many systems and components, all with varying life expectancies.

 

SWIMMING POOLS	YEARS
Concrete Shell	25+
Cover	7
Diving Board	10
Filter and Pump	10
Interior Finish	10 to 35
Vinyl Liner	10
Pool Water Heater	8
Waterline Tile	15+

 

 

Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years, while wooden windows should last nearly 30 years.

 

WINDOWS	YEARS
Aluminum/Aluminum-Clad	15 to 20
Double-Pane	8 to 20
Skylights	10 to 20
Window Glazing	10+
Vinyl/Fiberglass Windows	20 to 40
Wood	30+

Note: Life expectancy varies with usage, weather, installation, maintenance and quality of materials.  This list should be used only as a general guideline and not as a guarantee or warranty regarding the performance or life expectancy of any appliance, product, system or component.

 

 

Written by Administrator

Category: General Inspection Articles

Published: 28 December 2014

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous for homeowners in most parts of the U.S.
• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
• It increases the comfort level indoors.
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess  leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical receptacles/outlets;
• mail slots;
• around pipes and wires;
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
• attic hatches;
• fireplace dampers;
• inadequate weatherstripping around doors;
• baseboards;
• window frames; and
• switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as: 

• Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.
• Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.
• Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.

5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

• low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
• vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.  
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.
• Use efficient ENERGY STAR-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s ENERGY STAR Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers, and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
• Chargers, such as those used for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
• Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

• skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
• light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and 
• light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, and then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

• Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
• Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, apply weatherstripping around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when they're closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place.
• Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
• If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
• Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
• Pans should be placed on the matching size heating element or flame. 
• Using lids on pots and pans will heat food more quickly than cooking in uncovered pots and pans.
• Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
• When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster. 

10. Change the way you do laundry.

• Do not use the medium setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the medium setting saves less than half of the water and energy used for a full load.
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not very soiled. Water that is 140° F uses far more energy than 103° F for the warm-water setting, but 140° F isn’t that much more effective for getting clothes clean.
• Clean the lint trap every time before you use the dryer. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer.